Not much is left of Ming interiors, which were often destroyed by war, fire or theft, or simply rebuilt from the imperial parts' stores and then more recently overpainted in gaudy reds and greens.
So it was a delight to be invited into an upstairs chamber with the west gate of the city walls of Xi'an - not open to the public - which has miraculously escaped both revolution and the restorer's hands. Having survived thus far, it will now be treated with the respect it deserves, for the delicate murals and decorations on the beams and walls are quite unique,
©Edward Burman